Ego Facto - Sacre Coeur

Perfume notes (from Lucky Scent) - aromatic notes, Chablis accord, fruit notes,  ginger, patchouli, leather, tobacco. 

Image credit: Projectvisual.net - sacre-coeur-morning

When I first looked at the notes for Sacre Coeur at Lucky Scent, I felt this was a fragrance that would really work for me. The notes were appealing and I wondered what the chablis accord would smell like. I don't know, I wish I could say I like this, but it did not speak to me at all. It opens quite fruity, which I take must be the Chablis, but to me this does not smell anything like grapes, let alone Chablis. I've drunk a fair bit of Chardonnay in my time and I know perfume is not necessarily meant to be 'photo-realistic' in its portrayal of smells but even so, I was hoping this would at least resemble some sort of wine note, but alas no. The opening and heart in particular have a certain generic, even department-store feel and I'm reminded of Chanel Allure for some reason (the men's version). I get cedar, I get musk, I get fruity sweetness and foremost in my mind is the question "why is this called Sacre Coeur?" I've included a photo of the Sacre Coeur in Paris only because it seems like the obvious connotation, but I honestly don't know if this was the inspiration for this fragrance. In any event, the late middle and base notes are an improvement. The fruit, although still there, is dulled by what I perceive as even a touch of incense, although I suspect it is base notes doing this. I know my nose is not necessarily the best in the world, but I don't find any tobacco here to speak of and I struggle to find any leather either. I know that wearing and appreciating perfume is not always about 'getting it', and especially not 'getting the notes' but even so, I can't quite find any inspiration from this fragrance. I am not a perfume snob, honestly, and I know that the price point and marketing of the Ego Facto line is not really as a niche concept, but I can't help feeling a bit disappointed that this comes across as a fairly bland, albeit quite well done designer fragrance; there's nothing wrong with that and let me not dissuade you from at least sampling it, but it did not work for me at all.


If anyone can explain the reasoning behind the name, please email me and let me know. I did a quick search on the net but did not discover anything obvious and I was too lazy to dig any deeper.

Spice and amber - Ambre Russe and Caravelle Epicee

I have had samples of Ambre Russe (Parfum D'Empire) and Caravelle Epicee (Frapin et Cie) for quite some time now. Both were purchased from Les Senteurs in London. Incidentally, I don't know if any of you know of Les Senteurs, but they are a small business in London's Belgravia, selling some wonderful niche fragrances. If you visit them personally, they will usually be more than happy to provide you with samples. If you aren't able to visit, they will mail you 6 samples (generous quantities I might add) for £18. 


When I first tried these, I think it was in winter, or possibly very early spring. All I know is that neither spoke to me and I felt that they were decent, but unremarkable. I put them to one side, but recently I dug them out of my mucky scent sin bag, looked at them and then thought: "what the hell, lets give these two another go...." I'm not quite sure what made me try one on each wrist; its something I do quite often actually. I think I'm just greedy for scent. Thinking about it now, I think it was the booze that did it. No, I wasn't inebriated, but both these fragrances have boozy notes and I felt like comparing them side by side. 


Both fragrances open in an alcoholic haze. Ambre Russe has a top note of Vodka, and it opens dry and slightly vegetal, like potato-distilled alcohol. It isn't overtly boozy, but within a minute or so it sweetens slightly, when I detect a touch of patchouli, amber and something herbal. I'm not sure about herbs, it could be lavender or perhaps cardamom? There is a leather note in there as well, but it veers towards the fruity side rather than the fetish/leather jacket club, with a hint of smoke. I felt that at this point it bore a resemblance to Caravelle Epicee, but less boozy and sweet. In the heart the amber really comes to the fore and what a great amber it is. The funny thing is, when I first tried this last year, I never really got a serious amber note, yet months on, it hits me right between the eyes. Is this just me having a better-trained nose and more perfume exposure, or is it a seasonal, skin chemistry thing? This fragrance is sweet, but like the best of Serge Lutens, for example, this is tempered by the balance of herbs and spices. The dry down is amber, lightly spiced, dryish, yet enough sweetness to please those who like that style of amber. If I were to classify or pigeon hole this, I would say it is a bit like a cross between Serge's Ambre Sultan and Montale's Blue Amber. It is a complex and rich fragrance and I definitely give it a strong thumbs up.


Caravelle Epicee opens with booze too, but its cognac this time, sweet, heady but again, cleverly tempered with herbs and spices, so it never becomes cloying. The sweetness is rounded with an oaky, caramelness not unlike what one would expect from an oak barrel in which the cognac was aged. Its a clever touch. I detect herbs and a slight floralness which might be lavender or sage, but honestly, I'm not sure. There is a smokiness in this fragrance too, more charred barrel than burning wood, that weaves in and out, almost incense-like, and as tobacco and cumin seep through in the heart, I'm swooning. I can't believe how much cumin I detect (having not noticed previously, until I read a review of Ines, of All I Am, A Redhead blog). Its wonderful, and with the nutmeg and pepper, forms a formidable spice combo. Although sweet, there is a slightly sour tang that balances things. In the dry down, I am reminded of sitting in a library, comfey in a leather armchair in front of the fire, glass of cognac in hand - perhaps I am just being fanciful!  Ironically, despite the winter comfort scene, I actually think Caravelle Epicee performs better on my skin in warmer weather. This is also a complex, lush and lovely perfume.


I think these are both beautiful fragrances. I think they bear similarities in that both have a booze top note, spices and smoke. Where they differ the most is that Ambre Russe is ultimately all about amber, while Caravelle Epicee is mostly about cognac and spices, yet both are sweet, but balanced, without ever becoming cloying. Both work better in warmer weather in my opinion, despite them being ironically comfort scents, at least to my nose. I recommend both wholeheartedly.

Ineke - Field Notes from Paris

Image credit: Deviantart.net Springtime in Paris by Isismas

Fragrance notes: Bergamot, Orange Blossom, Coriander Seed, Tobacco Flower and leaf, Patchouli, Cedar, Tonka, Leather, Beeswax, Vanilla.

I'd read a number of favourable reviews of Field Notes from Paris; many noted the prominent orange blossom note, and others described it as an urbane, cosmopolitan fragrance. I approached this with no heavily preconceived ideas. I first tried it on a paper scent strip at Liberty in London and it haunted me for several weeks before I finally got a sample from First in Fragrance in Germany. On first application this opened quite sharp, aldehydic even, with a twist of orange. The orange blossom dominates the first phase, and its quite a floral, heady accord. I get spices and herbs and a slightly flowery note that could well be the tobacco flower and coriander doing a tango. Into the heart the fragrance sweetens and I get the tobacco and a bit of patchouli coming to the fore. I find it quite hard to describe the tobacco note - its definitely not a pipe tobacco, but doesn't really seem like a cigarette either. The orange blossom stays fairly prominent throughout and for me, the fragrance stays relatively linear from here on into the dry down. It might just be my untrained nose, but I never really detect the beeswax or the cedar. The dominant notes are tobacco and orange blossom, but I don't find this a warm, comforting scent. The quality seems very good and its well constructed, but it almost seems too cerebral for me, like its trying to make some sort of intellectual statement, but its not on my wavelength. In the end, this fragrance just isn't me and I could never see myself purchasing a full bottle. However, this is just my opinion and I am sure that it could work wonderfully for others. I shall try this again in the summer, when perhaps the heat will bring out different facets and who knows, perhaps I will warm to it.

The picture I used above is Springtime in Paris, incidentally not so much because this fragrance evokes spring in Paris for me, but rather just because it is springtime in Paris right now and I wouldn't mind being there! I can see Field Notes from Paris having a lot of fans. It is unisex, but (perhaps somewhat presumptuous of me) I can see this being more popular with the ladies. 

Caron L'Anarchiste

I have a troubled history with Caron's perfumes. Venerable house, almost niche, not that readily available, true to its traditions - I would have thought I'd have loved their perfume, but a lot of it has in truth left me cold. I enjoy and wear Tabac Blonde and En Avion, quite enjoy Pour Un Homme, yet Yatagan and Third Man did not thrill me at all; nor did Parfum Sacre. This is just my personal experience though. I'm not for one second saying that this is not a great perfume house, its just that I'm not moved by what I've tried so far. Which leads me to their most recent masculine release (which is not that recent at all, released in 2000), L'Anarchiste.

L'Anarchiste receives some serious love - one only has to read reviews on Basenotes, for example, where there are 45 positive and 15 neutral opinons out of a total of 70. The notes are listed as Orange Blossom, Mandarin, Cedar leaves, Sandalwod, Vetiver, Cedarwood and Musk.  On my skin L'Anarchiste does open bright and citrusy, and almost fizzy, or zingy might be a better description. It has been described as having a metallic feel and I can make this association, which I perhaps perceive as zingy. I find the opening a bit weird if I'm being honest. There is a freshness to it that is at the same time slightly "off", at least to my nose. I get notes of musk and cedar quite quickly after this, but not in a generic, department-store sort of way. I saw in the notes afterwards that cedar leaf is listed. Perhaps that is the slightly unusual cedar note I'm getting. In the heart the metallic accord fades away, thankfully, and it segues into a smooth and quite rich combination of musk and woods (cedar), tinged with a sweetness that I presume is the sandalwood. I never quite identify vetiver, but having said that, the fragrance does maintain a slight tartness throughout that tempers the musks and sandalwood, which could well be the vetiver note. There's something about the overall style of L'Anarchiste that reminds me of a couple of the men's De Nicolai perfumes, but not as rich or vanillic. In the dry down I do detect what I think of as that trademark Caron base - skin musk, smooth, rich and slightly buttery almost and its probably the last phase that I appreciate most of all.

I personally think it is the most interesting of the masculine Carons that I have tried, but its not that easy to wear, particularly the opening, for me. I'm still not convinced that Caron works that well for me, but granted, this is an interesting fragrance and definitely worth trying, although I would stress that sampling this first is probably a good idea.

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Patchouli 24 by niche house Le Labo seems to garner much praise on many blog websites, Basenotes, etc. I came to the Le Labo party quite late and to be honest, with the exception of Oud 27, none of the line has impressed me all that much. They all seem quite good, but lack inspiration, certainly to my nose.

The notes for Patchouli 24 are listed (not officially, as I don't think Le Labo likes to do that sort of thing) as patchouli, styrax, birch and vanilla. The comparisons with Bulgari Black are inevitable, as at first glance they seem quite similar. The opening starts quite brightly, with a brief burst of citrus, but within seconds a smokiness wells up quite strongly. The birch note is immediately apparent and the fragrance takes on a smoky leatheriness that lasts throughout most of the heart and early dry down. This is quite a sweet scent though and its not long before the smokiness becomes tempered by the vanilla note. At this point the comparison with Bulgari Black would seem most obvious. I can see why some people would think this, but for starters Patchouli 24 never has that rubber note that Black has, nor the tea accord. The smokiness is also far more pronounced in Patchouli 24. If anything, that hardcore birch tar note recalls Tauer Lonestar memories, at least for me, but less smoked-meat-and-leather. 


The dry down continues on the smoky, tarry, vanillic theme, rather sweet,  but it never becomes cloying, as the fragrance is well balanced and the edges do smooth somewhat later on. Overall this is an intense perfume, almost certainly the most masculine of the Le Labo line that I've tried. I can see this as a polarising scent - some will love it, others will despise it. I think after Oud 27 this is my second favourite of the line and I think fans of Bulgari Black or Lonestar Memories will like it too.

Amouage Tribute Attar

I have long been a fan of the Amouage line, having sampled just about all of the fragrances. I finally obtained a sample of the Tribute Attar from Luckyscent. I balked slightly at the thought of paying about $10 for 0.4ml of juice, but needn't have worried, as one or two slight dabs on the wrist last literally 10 hours on my skin. As someone who has very little experience of perfume oils firstly, and even less of Attars, I was initially taken back by how strong this is! 

The listed notes are Frankincense, Rose Taifi, Jasmine and Saffron. You can bet your last dollar that there are more ingredients than this; it is too complex and long-lasting to simply have these four ingredients. The opening is quite subdued, I think probably because it is so oily it takes a little while to warm up on the skin and open up. There isn't the typical top, middle and base notes of your EDP or EDT formulations. As it warms up there is a lovely rose note that emerges, not unlike that in Lyric Women, but slightly less dewy. As the initial innocence fades there emerges a smoky leather accord and its at this point that I realised I was in for a fairly dark journey. The attar intensifies quite considerably and takes on the form of a leathery chypre, not green, but rather dominated by rose, leather and something that emerges as slightly tangy/sour. I can't quite identify it, but it does seem slightly vetivery, although I have no clue whether this is actually the case. There is no distinct progression here - the rose, smoke and incense sort of weave in and out, mingling together a bit like a wafting smoky breeze. One minute it seems really intense and almost overpowering; the next I have to sniff quite closely. 

This is a seriously complex scent; thick, dark, sweet, yet dry. I find it quite hard to describe exactly how it smells. Much later the attar does smooth out and become a dry, rosy incense with some smoke and again, what I perceive as vetiver. If I could come up with one word to describe this, it would be shape-shifter - I can't pigeonhole this in any way. It changes character constantly and keeps me guessing.

Tribute is seriously expensive, so I think it is unlikely that I will ever own a bottle of it, but to be honest, half a millilitre could last you quite a while, if you aren't going to wear it every day. I find it too complex and dark to wear often, but every now and again is a real treat. I would say that it is more suitable to cooler weather, but having said that, Middle-Eastern perfume is usually strong and complex and usually worn in very hot weather so I am keen to try this in the summer and see how it wears on my skin - perhaps another facet shall emerge to keep me riveted. This comes highly recommended, even with the hefty price tag and I would urge you to at least sample this; it is brilliant.

Ortigia Melograno and Fico D'India

I first saw the Ortigia range of colognes, bath and body products at my local Fenwick department store. I presume they've been around for a while, but I hadn't noticed them probably because they are stuck away towards the back of the store, somewhere between Dr Hauschka and Crabtree & Evelyn. Anyway, I saw them and what struck me most was their packaging, which looks fun and vibrant, yet serious enough to come across as wearable adult products. I tried two of the line, both on paper strips, so I must admit that I don't know how these develop on the skin.

Melograno

This is based on pomegranate. The website does not go into much detail about the ingredients, but does describe the pomegranate as an exotic fruit, with a dry and dusty scent, symbols of Maximilian 1 of Rome and Catherine of Aragon, both rulers of Sicily. Whether that is true, I can't really say. The fragrance opens quite fruity and pulpy and I suppose it is the smell of pomegranate, but as I am not very familiar with the fresh fruit, I can't vouch for how close-to-life this is. It isn't fruity-floral territory though, and there is something quite herby and spicy in there as well and almost smoky, which really is very nice. The opening is the best part though. Like many colognes, it fades relatively quickly and into the heart it becomes quite powdery, but more in a dusty sort of way. It starts with great promise, then fades into a fairly bland, slightly musky/woody cologne.

Fico d'India

This opens with a brief citrus accord that quickly becomes milky. Until i read the notes, I thought this was a fig scent, but apparently it is based on the prickly pear, which is part of the cactus family although I stand corrected! It is fairly woody, with a slightly sweet feel that almost verged on marine. It feels fresher than Melograno but also has that dusty/powdery note and then fades fairly quickly, being a cologne.


I'm not sure how much I really like these, although to be fair I should try them on skin. The most promising and enjoyable phases for me for both colognes was the opening and then they become kind of ordinary and fade quickly.