Chanel Coromandel

As some of you may know, I am working my way through the Chanel Exclusifs samples I recently received. Today I am wearing Coromandel, a fragrance that is apparently inspired by the Coromandel Laquer screens that Coco Chanel had in one of her Paris apartments. I've read differing views, but it seems like Coromandel was created by Jacque Polge with some input by Christopher Sheldrake. The theme of Coromandel, certainly to my nose, is patchouli and amber, with a smidgen of incense, and I could be wrong here, but just a hint of lily and tobacco. The reason I say this is, about half an hour in, I notice an accord that bears more than a passing resemblance to Versace Dreamer, albeit toned down dramatically. I could be speaking total rot here, but to my nose, that is what I smell. I think if I were to introduce a friend to patchouli, this is the perfume I would get him or her to try first. Coromandel is a wonderfully well executed patchouli fragrance, but it is not overbearing, which patchouli can be sometimes, and I think this frightens some people off it as a note. I actually like patchouli, but then, some of my staples are fragrances like Mazzolari Lui and Intrigant Patchouli by Parfumerie General, both of which are in my opinion hard-core patch fests.  What I love about Coromandel is that has that inimitable Chanel feel of understated luxuriance. The patchouli is most definitely there, and it smells like proper patchouli, unlike some of the dross that is churned out these days in the name of patch. But, and this is a big but, the patchouli in Coromandel smells polished and refined, like if you were to attribute an alcoholic term to perfume, this is triple-distilled and then aged in mellow casks. When I say polished, I find the patchouli, in combination with the amber, takes on an almost woody, waxed-and-polished feel. Some people have compared Coromandel to Borneo 1834 by Lutens, and I can see where they are coming from, although I think Borneo carries a much edgier feel with its camphor and coco notes, and overall, it has a far greater oriental feel to it. But perhaps there is no coincidence in this comparison when one considers that Sheldrake has worked with both Lutens and Chanel.

When all is said and done, I find Coromandel to be a compelling fragrance. I wouldn't say that it is uber original, but it is incredibly well-crafted, and like I said earlier, it carries that Chanel hallmark of understated elegance and chic, which is a hard thing to pull off with such a dominant note as patchouli is. So far, the Exclusifs impress me, although more will be revealed as I move on to some of the others. As with Bois des Iles, I can't recommend Coromandel highly enough. 

Patchouli amazing - two to try

Mazzolari Lui

Two brilliant patchouli-based scents today and first up, Lui, by Italian house Mazzolari. I had read quite a bit about Lui before finally obtaining a sample. Many people have described this as a beast of a scent, and as is often the case, I was slightly sceptical about the hype. Well, what can I say? I was proven wrong. Lui reminds me of a black panther for some reason. I think it is the opening. Upon application I get a blast of camphorous patchouli, no holds-barred. No sweetness or citrus here. Straight after this a strange accord wells up. It reminds me of fur, dusty animal fur or more specifically, the fur of a large cat, hence the panther association. Its quite disturbing, frankly. This note lasts for the duration of the heart notes; while the scent does sweeten, it maintains an edgy, uneasy feel, thanks in no part to a strong patchouli note. Its the sort of patchouli I like - earthy, almost woody and quite dusty, without being powdery. Into the dry down and the beast has put on his overcoat in readiness for dinner and the scent becomes slightly more refined, without ever totally losing that animalic thrust. The scent has great longevity and far into the dry down its pure patch, with perhaps a smidgen of what I perceive as a floral note. It is a compelling scent and I have to say, I love it.                  

Borneo 1834 - Serge Lutens

Borneo also opens with a blast of straight-up patchouli that is rapidly joined by a dusty cocoa powder note, not dissimilar to the note found in L'Instant by Guerlain. This may seem fanciful, but the effect or association for me can be likened to being in a shiny, polished corridor, lined with wooden panels and benches. I don't really know why. There is also a camphorous edge to this, but more restrained, smoother and sophisticated at this point than Lui. Borneo is like the older brother who knows he is due the inheritance; Lui is the younger brother who decided to join the gym instead and juice up on steroids. Into the heart and the cocoa note can still be detected and there is a sweet, slightly ambery note peeping in. At this point I am struggling to tell the two scents apart. Lui is perhaps less sweet and still has that vague unsettling note of animal fur lurking underneath, whereas Borneo is a touch more refined. Into the dry down and the patchouli dominates, but like Lui, it is a dry and earthy patch, not powdery or too sweet. Borneo doesn't use the familiar stewed-fruit-and-spices accord found in a lot of Lutens' fragrances. It is quite unique in the line, I think. In the far dry down it would take a good nose to tell Borneo and Lui apart. Perhaps Lui still bares his teeth a bit more, but they smell very similar at the end.

I have to admit, both these fragrances are in my opinion very well executed. I think I like them both equally, but although I said they are very similar, there are enough differences between the two, mainly in the opening and early mid-notes. I am not a huge fan of patchouli in general, having struggled with the note in the past, but these two are both very enticing. If you are looking for fruitchouli, look elsewhere - you ain't gonna find it here. 

Would I buy either of these? If my wallet allowed, both would grace my fragrance wardrobe. However, a word of caution - I would struggle to wear either of these daily as they are both powerful and make a very definite statement. Both come highly recommended though!

Panther pic from animals.timdaru.org

Borneo 1834 from hexagone.ru/images