Friday Bits and Bobs Edition 1

Today's post is a hodge podge of Friday musings. I paid a visit to my local Fenwick department store and randomly sprayed a few scent strips with whatever took my fancy or something I hadn't seen before. Therefore, any opinions I have on the following are merely first impressions and may not do the fragrances any justice, but hey ho.

First up, the new limited summer addition splashes by Marc Jacobs. I was astounded by the size of these - 300ml! By gosh, these make the Chanel Exclusives look positively diminutive by comparion... They are huge, but as the sales assistant admitted, they are good value for money, if you like bathing in a vat of juice. I only tried Biscotti and Pomegranate, not the Apple.

To be honest, I couldn't smell much of the Biscotti, just a vague, slightly fruity accord and then something slightly musky, while Pomegranate smelled like, well, pomegranate. It was the better of two, I thought; there is a sour/sweet note at the top which is quite nice, but fleeting and then an accord that turns quite citrusy and grapefruit-like. Initial impression - nice to wear on a hot summer's day, uncomplicated and so sheer and weak that I'm not surprised they are packaged in 300ml bottles. They aren't really my style, but I think they will prove popular and for the price (£45 a bottle, or 15 pence a millilitre) you can't really go wrong.

Next up, Equipage by Hermes. I've tried this one quite a few times. Sometimes it strikes me as quite old fashioned, but it is a classic men's fragrance, a spicy fougere/chypre really. The opening is strong and spicy, mixed with citrus and spice, then moves to a spicy cumin accord that reminds me a bit of Declaration by Cartier. It is sort of sweet/spicy/dirty, all at the same time. The drydown is mostly oakmoss and patchouli. I've seen this listed as a fougere, but to me (in my limited experience) it straddles the line of what I perceive as a fougere and a chypre. It has elements of both I think. It is quite complex, having elements of citrus, woods, spices, herbs and a sweet smokiness that keeps you guessing as to its mood as you go along.

Being in a Hermes state of mind, I spritzed on D'Orange Verte. This is a wonderful citrusy, orangey, slightly mossy cologne that is a summer staple. One drawback is that it lasts for less than an hour on my skin, so reapplication is necessary, but worth it, just for that initial blast of bitter and sweet orange. Since this one, they've released a concentrated version, but this is still the best, in my opinion.

Last one for the day was Amaranthine, by Penhaligons, the classic English perfumers. This was created by Bertrand Duchafour and represents a departure for him from his usual incenses and spices into a more floral realm. I've seen some very favourable reviews of this one, but I must be honest and say that it is not really my cup of tea. It is meant to smell like the inside of a woman's thigh. I'm no expert, but I have smelled the inside of a woman's thigh (incidentally, how far up the inside of said woman's thigh are you meant to smell?) and this doesn't really capture that scene for me. It smells of powder, violets and mimosa flowers to me, slightly creamy and almost vanillic in a way. There is something about it that reminds me of Un Fleur de Cassie by Frederic Malle, which did not appeal to me either. I'm not saying that this isn't a good fragrance; lots of people with better perfume pedigree than I have praised it, but it just doesn't speak to me.

Oh well, that's it for my first Friday bits and bobs edition. Happy smelling everyone.

Prada Infusion de Tubereuse and Infusion de Vetiver

There was quite a lot of excitement when news of these releases was received in the blog community. I know there are quite a few Prada fans out there, but I must be honest and say that I have never been blown away by Prada. Of the line, I think the feminine Infusion d'Iris was best done and the masculine version inferior. Having said that, there is something in the Infusion line overall that just doesn't agree with my nose. I can't quite pin it down, but I think it might be that house note of soapy amber and benzoin - its distinctive and somewhat cloying to me and it puts me off. When Prada released Infusion de Fleur D'oranger it didn't improve either, in my opinion.

Anyway, so we come to the two latest releases in the line. Due to my history with Prada, I wasn't expecting much. The reviews I had read mostly suggested that these were ok, but not particularly great. In particular, sillage and longevity appear to be a problem. I tried Tubereuse first and I was pleasantly surprised actually. Look, I admit that if you are familiar with Tuberose as a note and have experienced Fracas, Tubereuse Criminelle or Carnal Flower then you might wonder why this is even called Tubereuse. It is subtle and diffusive and in keeping with the Prada ethos. However, if you are new to tuberose, or find the divas too loud, shrieky and in-your-face, then this might appeal. Most reviewers have said that they can't smell tuberose, but I noticed it straight up. Its true that it is quite subtle, but it is there. I think if you are sensitive to the forcefulness of tuberose, then you might notice it more, and being a male and a bit nervous of white florals, i picked it up quickly and was relieved that it did not shout out. I think it is a well done fragrance and most pleasing is that the dry down does not tread the usual ambery/benzoin path for me, or at least, not obviosly so.

Vetiver opens up with a gin-like accord, all astringent, boozy green and herby, with a touch of lemon. I can see that opening really working on a hot, humid summer's day. However, soon after I get that dreaded soapy, amber accord seeping through and I lose interest. The vetiver does come through, more in the grassy, fresh style of say Lubin Vetiver or Mugler Cologne, rather than rooty/earthy. I must admit that it is an improvement on Fleur D'oranger and the originals and stays a bit fresher and less soapy-amber.

Overall, I quite like these two. They aren't particularly innovative or unique, and if you like your tuberose and vetiver more forceful and full of character, then you won't find that here. However you could do a lot worse than try these two and I would certainly recommend at least sampling them.

Voyage d'Hermes by Hermes

Today I'm doing a quick review of the new Hermes fragrance, released within the last month. The reason I say quick, is that I think all the other blog reviews have covered it quite sufficiently. However, the reason I am mentioning it at all is that firstly I love the bottle design and secondly, I do admire Hermes perfumes.

I love Hermes' understated, chic design and concept. It is high-end luxury that never shouts but does show its class throughout. Voyage is no exception. Designed by Jean Claude Elena, it will appeal to his many fans and those who like their perfume understated yet substantial at the same time.

When I read all the reviews, one common thread that emerged was that the fragrance is literally like all J C Elena's work for Hermes, Cartier and Bulgari packaged in one scent. I was slightly bemused and sceptical about this, but having now sampled the fragrance twice, once on a scent strip and the other time on my wrist, I too can vouch for this assessment.

It is appealing and if you are at all familiar with Elena's style and particularly his previous work for Hermes, you will recognise his signature all the way, from top to bottom. The opening is tart citrus, mainly grapefruit, then in comes some rose (the most pleasurable phase of the scent for me), then cedar and a hint of cumin, a la Cartier Declaration. Into the drydown cedar (iso-e super mainly) dominates, in the manner of Terre D'Hermes. All the way though, there are little cameos from a number of the Hermes range and this makes the fragrance quite fascinating to me.

Having said that, I think if you already own a number of Elena creations, I cannot see why you would wish to own Voyage. It is a little too much like deja vu. However, if you are new to Hermes' creations and to J C Elena, then I think this would be a great introduction to their recent style and scent philosophy and you could do a lot worse.

One final comment on the bottle: gorgeous as it is, I wish Hermes had made the metal swivel-thing cover with a matt finish. The metal is glossy and shiny and the tester I looked at was covered in fingerprints, which kind of reduces the impact in my opinion, but nevertheless, an inspired design!

A Tale of two Irises

About two or three years ago Iris in perfumery came back into fashion in a big way. It was a bit like what oud is now - you couldn't view a new release that didn't have iris as a note. I have grown to love the use of Iris, but prefer the more woody and earthy styles, as opposed to the powdery aspects. I also enjoy Iris pared with leather, especially when that buttery note emerges, like in the style of Dior Homme for example.

I tested two Iris-based perfumes recently, both by Parfumerie Generale, Iris Taizo and Cuir D'Iris.

Iris Taizo

This opens fairly bright and zingy. There is no citrus to my nose, but it is a sort of sour accord. There's also a rooty iris note that appears almost immediately and that slightly fruity/sour accord lingers beneath. It is pleasant. As the iris strengthens, it comes across just a bit powdery, but is mostly rooty and earthy. This smells slightly dusty as well, and the scent sweetens a bit as what I perceive as a subtle amber note seeps through. There is a spiciness as well, and perhaps what I'm getting as these sweet and spicy notes with a hint of fruitiness is the cardomom, a note that I am not very familiar with, but if this is it, I like it a lot. I wouldn't say this is totally an iris-focused scent; there is quite a lot going on here and I detect a bit of incence as well. However, iris is present at all times, well balanced with the spice and sweetness. I've read some reviews that describe the fragrance as cloying. I don't find it thus - I think all its parts complement each other, without any note becoming too dominant. If you like your iris woodier and less floral, with a slight twist, then I think Iris Taizo may be to your taste. Although marketed as feminine, I think it is entirely unisex and would smell great on a man or a women.

Cuir d'Iris

This opens bone dry, with a note almost like floor polish or wood wax. There is an iris note, but it is so subdued that blink and you may miss it. Within a couple of minutes or so it disappears off my skin and a very subtle, butter-leather note comes to the fore, but it is not obviously leathery, at least not to my nose. It does sweeten, but again, I don't get any obvious citrus or florals. Into the heart and I start to get quite a lot of patchouli. In fact, although not as obviously animalic, it does remind me a bit of that furry accord in Mazzolari Lui, but only for a very short while. After this the scent becomes quite dry and I get a hint of saddle-soap and then all I get for the next hour or so is patchouli, lots of it. In fact, I think this scent is all about patchouli and I get very little leather and even less iris. I know that patchouli is often used in leather scents and admittedly as one gets to the base notes a more leathery accord does emerge, but its a strange one to me. If there is still any iris present, it is very well hidden by the patchouli and I can't detect any. In the dry down it does soften considerably and the patchouli is not as forceful. In fact overall I would say it is a fairly quiet scent. It certainly is different and I can see people who enjoy Cuir Venenum quite enjoying this one.

Overall I think Taizo is definitely the more interesting of the two, for me. I think Taizo is bottle-worthy. I can't think of any other iris scent that is quite like it, so it stands out for me.

Image: Claude Monet - Field with Irises

Spring is sprung - my daily dose of green

Spring is finally on its way here in the UK. After a long and cold winter, the daffodils are in full bloom, my cherry tree is about to burst into blossom and the leaves of trees are just budding. Today I'm wearing two perfumes that conjure up for me the spirit (if not entirely the smell) of spring. They are Comme de Garcon Monocle Scent 2 Laurel and Parfumerie Generale's Papyrus de Ciane.

Now, spring scents are often described as green, the sort of green that brings to mind fresh, dewy buds, sappy growth and that fragrant verdancy so often associated with April. The two scents I'm wearing today are not green in this sense. Papyrus is quite mossy, while Laurel is more herbal and aromatic. Yet both invoke in me that sense of spring, of a restless breeze, warming gradually as it shifts from the south, heralding a change.

Monocle Scent 2 - Laurel

This opens with a green (not sappy) blast that immediately smells familiar to me. I can't quite place it, possibly a smell from my childhood. The bay and olive soon assert themselves and the feeling is of walking through a wood on a dry, warm spring day. There is a hint of warmth, but this is no humid, damp walk. The scent sweetens slightly but overall remains dry and vaguely dusty - I think this might be the combination of subtle incense and pepper. As it moves into the heart, the scent intensifies, but is slightly creamy, which might be the olive note. I am suddenly struck, all for about a minute, of a resemblance to Yatagan, but this soon passes. Perhaps I am being fanciful but the overall feel of this scent is to me like taking a walk in a wood in Croatia (where I've holidayed) comprising mostly bay trees. Heated by the midday sun, the oils are released and the air becomes mildly fragrant, but deep in the undergrowth, I don't feel hot, but comfortable. The fragrance then becomes fairly linear, retaining the bay note and olive creaminess, which perhaps accounts for that slightly soapy note others have mentioned in reviews. Into the dry down the spiciness has faded mostly but it retains a hint of an edge. I find Laurel to be quite a comforting scent. It isn't loud and wears quite close to the skin, but has good longevity. Laurel is perfectly unisex, although I suspect (and having read favourable reviews, mostly by men) it will find a stronger following by men. It isn't really a sexy scent, but a comforting, reassuring one. I find this to be impeccably composed - it is well constructed and tasteful. Kevin, at Now Smell this, has written a very good review here.

Papyrus De Ciane by Parfumerie Generale
There are some technically in-depth reviews of this fragrance, particularly of Pierre Guillaume's use of an old base called Mousse de Saxe. See here for Octavian's very good review of the history of Mousse de Saxe. Papyrus opens more obviously green than Laurel, with a sweeter accord that is both floral and mossy. I'm not sure, but I think I get Lily of the Valley and Violet, but if so, both are quite muted and not particularly feminine. As the top notes fade there is still an undercurrent of sweetness and a bit of soapiness. Into the heart and the scent also starts to become quite linear, but again, like Laurel it is comforting and herbal enough not to be cloying. Its not miles apart from Laurel at this point; sweeter, yes, and mossy, whereas Laurel is herbier and dry, but in essence, both crystallise in my mind the feel of spring, of being in woods, although in Papyrus' case, the woods are damper and mossier, while Laurel's woods are dry and warming up in the midday sun. In the dry down the scent settles into a green, mossy accord, quite happy, but not frivolous. I'm not quite sure how to describe the use of Mousse de Saxe. I suspect it is the first time I've encountered it in a fragrance. It does smell mossy, but not in the classic Chypre style one might associate with say, Chanel no 19.  It is not as distinct or strong and feels more like smelling moss that has dried out in the sun, but not in a dusty way; it still retains a certain humid feel to it. Like Laurel, I find Papyrus to be quite sophisticated and understated. I think Papyrus might be more popular with females, as the slight sweetness lends it less austerity than Laurel, but it can easily be worn by a man too.


In summary, I think both are intellectual, refined fragrances. They appear quite simple in construction, almost pared down, but on closer examination they reveal their true identity in layers, subtle, but evident. Both come highly recommended. I wouldn't necessarily wear either daily, but when I'm in the mood for some quiet spring contemplation, I could do worse than reach for these two.

Shopping for perfume in Tunbridge Wells

Ah, Tunbridge Wells, that middle-class bastion of grammar-school-educated conservatives and the home of the infamous Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells.

Doesn't sound appealing? Well, my family have lived here for almost three years now and I can safely assure you that, while mildly conservative, it is a lovely town and the rumors are for the most part, unfounded. It is a spa town, founded during Georgian times and is set in the glorious High Weald of West Kent, about 50 miles south of London on the way down to Hastings and Eastbourne.

Tunbridge Wells is perhaps surprisingly well-endowed with shops, restaurants and theatre, considering how close to London it is. It is well-heeled, with a lot of old money floating around and has a large professional class, many of whom commute to the City and West End of London daily. I should know - I used to be one of them, until I chose to work locally.

So, on to perfume then - are there any places to find perfume in Middle England? Well, I was pleasantly surprised to find that there are two largish department stores in town, Fenwick and Hoopers. Fenwick is a small chain and can be found in London and other parts of the country, while Hoopers (as far as I know - I stand corrected) is privately owned and unique to Tunbridge Wells. 

Hoopers is the quainter of the two, sited opposite the train station. It has an old-fashioned feel to it, with wooden staircases, narrow and slightly jumbled walkways and rooms. It has wonderful shop window displays, particularly its winter Alice in Wonderland theme. So, what perfume is stocked? There is an eclectic mix. You will find the only Guerlain counter in town, with the basic range. Nothing too fancy as far as I can tell. There are also the usual Chanel and Dior counters, again with the standard ranges. Nothing Les Exclusif here, but decent. One will also find many standard designer lines, some of which include Gucci, Prada  and Calvin Klein and Hermes. However, there are some surprises too. They carry the full Amouage range, attars notwithstanding and the Bois 1920 line. One can also find Jean-Charles Brosseau, Lalique, Creed, Miller Harris (small range) and Grossmith.

Fenwick is more modern, found in the Royal Victoria Place shopping centre at the top of Mount Pleasant. It is a touch slicker, carries the same sort of designer lines as Hoopers, but does have a few interesting lines too. The most obvious one is probably Serge Lutens (I have begged many a sample here!) but they also carry Annick Goutal, Creed, Aqua Di Parma, Penhaligons and Van Cleef and Arpels.

One thing I noticed when moving here was how much easier it is (in my experience anyway) to get samples compared to London, especially if you develop a good relationship with a sales assistant. Both Hoopers and Fenwick are very generous with their samples and I have never been refused.

Other than these two, you can get a good range of designer perfumes at Boots the Chemist, also in Victoria Place. There is also a Perfume Shop in the centre, but in my experience you don't often find anything here at a real bargain price. There is a TK Maxx out on the industrial estate on the way to the cinema complex where you can occasionally find a good perfume at a knock-down price.

Moving down to the High Street (on the way to the famous Pantiles) there is a Space NK Hypothecary, where one can find Kiehls Musk, a limited range of Diptyque (but a good range of candles) and Honore du Prez. There used to be a lovely small perfume boutique down here (sadly now closed) that stocked Lorenzo Villoresi and some harder-to-find Creeds . The owner was a real perfume fan and was keen to crack open the samples and share them with me, but rising prices in a recession and in reality not much of a market in a smallish English town did him in.

Patchouli amazing - two to try

Mazzolari Lui

Two brilliant patchouli-based scents today and first up, Lui, by Italian house Mazzolari. I had read quite a bit about Lui before finally obtaining a sample. Many people have described this as a beast of a scent, and as is often the case, I was slightly sceptical about the hype. Well, what can I say? I was proven wrong. Lui reminds me of a black panther for some reason. I think it is the opening. Upon application I get a blast of camphorous patchouli, no holds-barred. No sweetness or citrus here. Straight after this a strange accord wells up. It reminds me of fur, dusty animal fur or more specifically, the fur of a large cat, hence the panther association. Its quite disturbing, frankly. This note lasts for the duration of the heart notes; while the scent does sweeten, it maintains an edgy, uneasy feel, thanks in no part to a strong patchouli note. Its the sort of patchouli I like - earthy, almost woody and quite dusty, without being powdery. Into the dry down and the beast has put on his overcoat in readiness for dinner and the scent becomes slightly more refined, without ever totally losing that animalic thrust. The scent has great longevity and far into the dry down its pure patch, with perhaps a smidgen of what I perceive as a floral note. It is a compelling scent and I have to say, I love it.                  

Borneo 1834 - Serge Lutens

Borneo also opens with a blast of straight-up patchouli that is rapidly joined by a dusty cocoa powder note, not dissimilar to the note found in L'Instant by Guerlain. This may seem fanciful, but the effect or association for me can be likened to being in a shiny, polished corridor, lined with wooden panels and benches. I don't really know why. There is also a camphorous edge to this, but more restrained, smoother and sophisticated at this point than Lui. Borneo is like the older brother who knows he is due the inheritance; Lui is the younger brother who decided to join the gym instead and juice up on steroids. Into the heart and the cocoa note can still be detected and there is a sweet, slightly ambery note peeping in. At this point I am struggling to tell the two scents apart. Lui is perhaps less sweet and still has that vague unsettling note of animal fur lurking underneath, whereas Borneo is a touch more refined. Into the dry down and the patchouli dominates, but like Lui, it is a dry and earthy patch, not powdery or too sweet. Borneo doesn't use the familiar stewed-fruit-and-spices accord found in a lot of Lutens' fragrances. It is quite unique in the line, I think. In the far dry down it would take a good nose to tell Borneo and Lui apart. Perhaps Lui still bares his teeth a bit more, but they smell very similar at the end.

I have to admit, both these fragrances are in my opinion very well executed. I think I like them both equally, but although I said they are very similar, there are enough differences between the two, mainly in the opening and early mid-notes. I am not a huge fan of patchouli in general, having struggled with the note in the past, but these two are both very enticing. If you are looking for fruitchouli, look elsewhere - you ain't gonna find it here. 

Would I buy either of these? If my wallet allowed, both would grace my fragrance wardrobe. However, a word of caution - I would struggle to wear either of these daily as they are both powerful and make a very definite statement. Both come highly recommended though!

Panther pic from animals.timdaru.org

Borneo 1834 from hexagone.ru/images