Hermes Voyage D'Hermes Parfum

In a post of mine in March, here, I mentioned that Hermes had released a parfum version of Voyage. Well, I tried the parfum version for the first time today and I have to say that in my opinion the original perfume wins hands down. It isn't that the parfum is bad, but to my mind it deadens the notes that made the original a curious, yet compelling pastiche of the Hermes aesthetic. The original was fresher, lighter and more vibrant - usually not the sort of things that appeal to me, being a fan generally of darker, stronger compositions, but it worked.

The parfum smells sweeter and more leathery to me, although various fragrance sites state that the parfum version brings rose and amber to the original. I think it is the amber that makes it sweeter and heavier. Perhaps I should try it when the weather is cooler, as it may appeal to me more. As I said above, it isn't a bad perfume by any means, but I prefer the original.

Hermes Rocabar

I was at my local Fenwicks department store today, who are celebrating their beauty week. I saw a few weeks ago that they are now stocking Rocabar, which I haven't personally come across before, but they didn't have a tester until recently. I've tried Equipage numerous times but Rocabar has eluded me (I'm still on the lookout for Bel Ami, but I am not convinced I will find it here in the UK - if anyone from the UK is reading this, a heads-up would be appreciated).

Anyway, today I tried Rocabar for the first time and I have to say that I really enjoy it. Released in 1998, the notes according to Basenotes are juniper berry, cedar needles, lavender, nutmeg, cinnamon, cyprus, atlas cedar, virginia cedar, balsam and vanilla. Reading these notes, one would be led to believe that Rocabar smells intensely woody and piney, with spices and an oriental twist in the base. I don't personally think that it wears as woody and piney on skin as I thought it would. And I'm grateful for that. I am not a massive fan of very piney fragrances and Rocabar's coniferous accords are well balanced with warm spices and a slight sweetness-and-resin from the balsam and vanilla. 

Many Basenotes reviews complain that Rocabar is too sweet and cloying. I don't know where that comes from, because on my skin it is not very sweet at all, as the woods and spice tone down most of this and it is very well balanced. In fact, I think it is the use of vanilla and balsam in the base that makes Rocabar so enjoyable, particularly as this stops the piney accords from dominating. I have to admit that Rocabar does smell a tiny bit dated - it smells more like a very well done 1980's perfume than something released only two years from the new century, yet is not forceful and hairy-chested. It smells smooth and classy, no surprise coming from Hermes, who do understated luxury very well indeed. I think Rocabar is fantastic, and I'm so glad that I've finally tried it. Highly recommended wearing.


I should point out that the Rocabar I tried is no longer in the bottle pictured top left. It is now in the slimline Hermes bottle common to the main range, for example the 'Un Jardin' perfumes.

Image credit - http://www.basenotes.net/

Friday scent of the day - Voyage D'Hermes

I've written about Voyage d'Hermes before, not long after it was first released just under two years ago. I wore it again on Friday and almost two years later, I still feel the same about it as I did then. To me, Voyage is a perfectly nice-smelling and decent perfume. It has that typical understated 'Hermes-ness' and chic sophistication, but ultimately it leaves me wondering why Hermes had to release a perfume that in my opinion simply takes a lot of what they've done previously and amalgamated it into one juice. It's sort of like a retrospective, perfume-wise. Taking that into account, I can sort of see where the name Voyage comes from too. Voyage is essentially a woody, slightly green perfume with a touch of musk and spice. All very understated but perfect for wearing on a day that you don't want to necessarily stand out and leave a trail behind you, but if someone does catch a whiff, it will be a very classy smelling whiff. I still love the bottle by the way. I read recently that a more intense version of Voyage will be released this year. It will be interesting to see how it compares to the original.

Image credit - http://fimgs.net/images/

Hermes Eau D'Orange Verte

Depending on one's point of view, 1 March could be seen as the start of spring. I know that strictly speaking spring starts at the spring equinox, I think, or somewhere around 21 March, but I am impatient for spring, so I will choose 1 March, so there!

Anyway, what perfume could be more appropriate for spring than Hermes Eau D'Orange Verte? 

Released many years ago (1979 according to Basenotes), this lovely perfume has notes of mandarin, sweet orange, mint, lemon tree extract and bitter orange. I have seen notes like patchouli and papaya mentioned as well, but to me it is a very orangey perfume, with a light woody dry down.  Eau D'Orange Verte is a light cologne-like perfume, so don't expect stellar lasting power. However, I can't think of much more joyful and uplifting than that first luscious citrus burst. It sings off the skin with exuberance and happiness, perfect for bolstering spirits after a long winter.

There is also a concentre version around, which I have tried, but not often. My vague recollection is that it is a bit denser than the original, with less zing and zip, but both are very nice.

Image credit - http://www.fragrancex.com/images/ 

Friday Bits and Bobs Edition 1

Today's post is a hodge podge of Friday musings. I paid a visit to my local Fenwick department store and randomly sprayed a few scent strips with whatever took my fancy or something I hadn't seen before. Therefore, any opinions I have on the following are merely first impressions and may not do the fragrances any justice, but hey ho.

First up, the new limited summer addition splashes by Marc Jacobs. I was astounded by the size of these - 300ml! By gosh, these make the Chanel Exclusives look positively diminutive by comparion... They are huge, but as the sales assistant admitted, they are good value for money, if you like bathing in a vat of juice. I only tried Biscotti and Pomegranate, not the Apple.

To be honest, I couldn't smell much of the Biscotti, just a vague, slightly fruity accord and then something slightly musky, while Pomegranate smelled like, well, pomegranate. It was the better of two, I thought; there is a sour/sweet note at the top which is quite nice, but fleeting and then an accord that turns quite citrusy and grapefruit-like. Initial impression - nice to wear on a hot summer's day, uncomplicated and so sheer and weak that I'm not surprised they are packaged in 300ml bottles. They aren't really my style, but I think they will prove popular and for the price (£45 a bottle, or 15 pence a millilitre) you can't really go wrong.

Next up, Equipage by Hermes. I've tried this one quite a few times. Sometimes it strikes me as quite old fashioned, but it is a classic men's fragrance, a spicy fougere/chypre really. The opening is strong and spicy, mixed with citrus and spice, then moves to a spicy cumin accord that reminds me a bit of Declaration by Cartier. It is sort of sweet/spicy/dirty, all at the same time. The drydown is mostly oakmoss and patchouli. I've seen this listed as a fougere, but to me (in my limited experience) it straddles the line of what I perceive as a fougere and a chypre. It has elements of both I think. It is quite complex, having elements of citrus, woods, spices, herbs and a sweet smokiness that keeps you guessing as to its mood as you go along.

Being in a Hermes state of mind, I spritzed on D'Orange Verte. This is a wonderful citrusy, orangey, slightly mossy cologne that is a summer staple. One drawback is that it lasts for less than an hour on my skin, so reapplication is necessary, but worth it, just for that initial blast of bitter and sweet orange. Since this one, they've released a concentrated version, but this is still the best, in my opinion.

Last one for the day was Amaranthine, by Penhaligons, the classic English perfumers. This was created by Bertrand Duchafour and represents a departure for him from his usual incenses and spices into a more floral realm. I've seen some very favourable reviews of this one, but I must be honest and say that it is not really my cup of tea. It is meant to smell like the inside of a woman's thigh. I'm no expert, but I have smelled the inside of a woman's thigh (incidentally, how far up the inside of said woman's thigh are you meant to smell?) and this doesn't really capture that scene for me. It smells of powder, violets and mimosa flowers to me, slightly creamy and almost vanillic in a way. There is something about it that reminds me of Un Fleur de Cassie by Frederic Malle, which did not appeal to me either. I'm not saying that this isn't a good fragrance; lots of people with better perfume pedigree than I have praised it, but it just doesn't speak to me.

Oh well, that's it for my first Friday bits and bobs edition. Happy smelling everyone.